Antarctic Region
(Please click on the photographs for more information)
Antarctic Peninsula
The sense of remoteness is overwhelming, miles and miles of snow, mountains, and glaciers, while the icebergs and the popping sounds of the sea ice were captivating. Trips on expedition ships typically last between 1-3 weeks with daily trips out on Zodiacs to cruise the coastal bays and penguin colonies. But everything hinges on the weather and sea conditions while some will undoubtedly suffer seasickness even though the fabled "Drake Passage" was calm for us.
The possibility of enforced sea days always exists, however, the experienced operators are very good at reading the weather charts and tailoring the itinerary accordingly. You will probably be issued with a Parka but wearing layers is key, as temperatures (wind chill) can be wide-ranging if you plan to spend plenty of time on deck.
Camera condensation can be a concern but just leave your gear in your camera bag for a while after going indoors to acclimatise. Wearing inner gloves was ideal when taking photographs as they afforded protection when removing the more bulky outer gloves for certain shooting scenarios.
Joining the MV Expedition operated by G-Adventures on a January departure with long summer days of daylight, penguin chicks, good weather and lots of whale sightings ticked all my boxes. While camping on the Antarctic peninsula for the night and the polar plunge added an interesting dimension. A lifelong ambition fulfilled.
Penguin Heaven
South Georgia
If you had to pick one stand out location for wildlife in the Southern Ocean, chances are it would be South Georgia. It's no accident that it's a regular subject for wildlife documentaries. Being some 104 miles long and 23 miles at its widest point, the towering mountains, unpredictable weather and abundant glaciers may not seem like a wildlife haven.
But the sea is filled with krill and marine life while the beaches and rocky bays are filled with over a million macaroni and half a million king penguins not forgetting the 3 million seals. The good news is that since the rat eradication program, species numbers are on the increase with new areas being colonised.
Biosecurity is a big thing here and expects to have your clothing and boots checked by the ship's crew and local authorities for organic matter (seeds etc) in the velcro or mud on your boots. It's everybody's responsibility to preserve this unique ecosystem and that's why people will check.
Add the deserted whaling stations and the Shackleton story, there is so much to see and do. I can see why some specialised trips only visit here, the photographic potential is massive. We also witnessed gale force 12 katabatic winds sweeping off the glaciers forcing us to remain at sea for one of our allotted days here, but still saw enough not to feel short-changed.
South Orkney & Elephant Island
The South Orkney Islands discovered back in 1821 lie between South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula so make up a perfect stopping off point while transiting between the two. The research base Orcadas was established by the Scottish National Antarctic Expedition in 1903 and transferred to the Argentine government in 1904 making this the oldest Antarctic station still in use.
The original 1903 stone building "Ormond House" can still be seen while some of the wooden buildings are kept as a museum. You can't help thinking that current research station buildings must be how a moon base would look?
The islands have the usual array of seals and penguins but would give us our only sighting of Adelie penguins that normally prefer colder climes further south. It's also here you will start to get close to stranded icebergs if heading south.
As to Elephant Island, this is the stuff of legend and the scene for one the UK's most amazing stories when back in 1916, twenty-eight men were stranded following the Endurance being crushed by sea ice. Shackleton and five others headed out in a lifeboat against seemingly impossible odds to search for rescue while 22 remained using two overturned lifeboats as a shelter for another 152 days. There isn't much to see although it's a thrill to see where this story unfolded. A real sense of history and an insight into what the early explorers had to endure.
Falkland Islands
For many trips. this will be the first stop if doing an extended Antarctic voyage and will be remembered for the first look at a penguin colony and the closest you will ever probably get to an albatross colony. For people from the UK, the "Britishness" of the island is impossible to miss while echoes of the 1982 invasion can be seen if looked for. It may be a warm-up act for other stops down the line but in its own right, has lots to offer.
