Antarctica - Penguin Tsunami in Neko harbour

One of the popular landings on cruise trips to the Antarctic Peninsula is Neko Harbour, named after the whaling factory ship Neko which often used the bay between 1911 and 1924. It’s also a good spot to observe a rookery of Gentoo penguins and their young.

On landing, the briefing was rather amusing with the advice that if you hear a crack of thunder and suddenly see the penguins on the beach running to higher ground, follow suit! The reason being the harbour is dominated by an imposing glacier whose large carvings can generate a tsunami which races to the shore at a rapid rate of knots. Looking at the glacier there was a large section which could detach at any time, but of course, you could stand there for days with nothing happening.

The next hour was spent watching the comings and goings of the penguins with their neighbourly squabbling and the stealing of small stones from each other’s nests. While a patrolling Brown Skua lived up to its menacing reputation by constantly trying its luck. The breeding season had started late due to the snow not melting by December with some of the Gentoo still sat on eggs. Alas, these would have no chance of survival if they hatched being late January and the Antarctic summer now starting to fade.

I decided to spend my two hours onshore at a viewpoint overlooking the penguins with the benefit of a direct view across towards the glacier and then it happened. With an almighty crack of thunder, large chunks of ice fell from the glacier into the bay. It happened so quickly and with my large telephoto lens trained on the penguins, I didn’t have time to capture a photograph of quality. But then saw the wave racing from the glacier towards the shore and yes the penguins were bracing themselves, this was the penguin tsunami!

Within seconds it was all over but was thrilled to of got some good shots of the wave. The penguins carried on as if nothing had happened. I did see one engulfed by the wave but took it in his stride, guess he was the equivalent of a human surfing champion?

For me, it's unexpected moments like this which makes a good trip into a great trip. Seeing the chunks of ice leaving the bay made a great time-lapse.