Peru - The royal roads of the Inca

Extending to some 25,000 miles in length and spanning several South American countries, the Inca road system holds some familiarities to the roads of the Romans, as in forming the backbone of their respective empires.

Thus allowing rapid movement of messengers, military assets, and those associated with royal duties, although with the Inca, the lower tiers of society were forbidden to use this asset unless special permission was granted.

With the Inca, all roads "led to Cusco" in Peru, with many older roads repurposed as well as new sections being commissioned. No terrain daunted the Inca road engineers, traversing mountain ranges, crossing deserts while bridges and tunnels were created as needed. Long stairways and switchbacks were used to tackle steep gradients.

Built for foot traffic and pack animals such as the Llama, rest stops were built every 12-14 miles, a distance considered to be a realistic daily target. It's interesting to note the Incas had yet to invent wheeled vehicles in what was the 15th century i.e. late medieval time in Europe.

Fish from Puerto Inca were sent by runners back to Cusco

The royal postal service was seen as vital with relay runners known as chasqui positioned at regular short intervals to aid rapid transfer. It also allowed seafood to be moved from the Inca port to the Imperial palaces in two just days, a distance of three hundred miles.

Today, many visitors walk the classic Inca trail from Cusco marker 82km to Machu Picchu providing breathtaking scenery, an appreciation of the Inca road operation, and places not accessible by the modern road.

The elevation map of the classic Inca trail

This particular road was never one of the main arteries being more of a spur to a royal estate hidden away in the mountains which famously avoided the attention of the Spanish invaders.

The Urubamba river

The itinerary of the classic Inca trail can vary from company to company but for myself (using Explore!), day one would see a short gentle five-kilometre walk along the valley of the Urubamba river passing an Inca outpost with the Andean mountains looming ahead. Eventually reaching the sizable Inca settlements of Llactapata and Patallacta sat at an altitude of 2750 m (9020 feet).

Temple and Astronomy building at Llactapata

With the trademark terracing, storehouses and buildings, the existence of a roadside shrine suggests this was some sort of local administration and crop processing centre as well as a significant rest point for those walking to Machu Picchu, as it would be for us. The presence of an Astronomical observation platform also suggested links to the Solstice rituals.

As with everything associated with the Inca, this was a period of history when nothing was written down. Much of our information comes from the accounts left by the Spanish conquistadors, although they never discovered this particular part of the Inca world.

Looking back at Patallacta

Trekking day two would see a twelve-kilometre walk this time along the Kusichaca river, passing the settlement of Wayllabamba with hummingbirds flitting in the trees, and the start of the ascent through the cloud forest.

Bromeliads start to appear as you reach a certain altitude.

The campsite at Llulluchapampa gave a spectacular view at an altitude of 3,850 meters (12,598 feet), although a disorientated exit from the tent in the dark would have proven catastrophic! My lasting memories will always be of a spectacular full moon lighting up the Andean mountains with wisps of clouds. Alas, my camera of the time not good enough to capture.

The campsite at Llulluchapampa

Day three would always be a talking point, with an ascent up and over Dead Woman's Pass and the highest point of the trek at 4,215 meters (13,828 feet).

The view from the top of Dead Woman's Pass

Next descending into the valley of the Pacamayo river before tackling the Abra Runkuakay Pass, the afternoon took us through the cloud forest to Phuyupatamarca. The vegetation becomes more tropical in nature with the Inca buildings of Sayacmarc being a welcomed diversion.

Looking down at the Inca settlement of Sayacmarc

Sayacmarc was thought to of been a village and sacred area.

The final night would be followed by the awaking to a spectacular weather inversion event across the valley. If I was an Inca, I would have felt like a god, looking down at the top of the clouds and the world.

Spectacular weather inversion as seen at first light

The cloud soon cleared and with our farewells to the porters who now returned to their small farming communities, time to descend to Machu Picchu passing the impressive ruins of Puyupatamarca, Intipata, and Winay-Wayna, all thought to be agricultural unit’s.

The Huayna Picchu mountain provides a backdrop to Machu Picchu

Phuyupatamarca (the city above the clouds) included a temple, ritual baths as well as an impressive irrigation system.

Intipata, the place of the Sun

Winay-Wayna (Forever young) with its highly impressive steep terraces includes a collection of storehouses, with a series of working fountains flanking a steep stairway.

Looking up the stairway at Winay-Wayna towards the ceremonial area.

The guides promised us at least ten different species of orchids along the route.

After passing various types of orchids and butterflies, the last step set of steep stairs takes you to the Inti Punku - the Gate of the Sun, and your first glimpse of the lost city.

Trekkers at the Sun gate enjoying their first view of Machu Picchu

The city of Machu Picchu as viewed from the Sun gate

So how hard is the classic Inca trail? Yes, we are talking about high altitudes but hopefully, you have been exploring Cusco so will be climatised. The daily mileage is not great, but some will find the ascents on day 3 and 4 hard going with steps often harder work on the hips than slopes, but as ever with the well oiled Inca Trail set up, the companies will cater for all abilities. But be warned, you will need a reasonable base fitness to enjoy this walk, even the most ardent of walkers may get out of breath on some of the steep climbs.

With so much to see along the route, be it admiring the impressive vistas, photographing the orchids by the trackside, or exploring the many Inca ruins. You will spend much of the day stopping and starting, this isn't a race if you really want to enjoy everything on offer.

Seeing how the porters move the camping gear just shows the hardy nature of the locals and have to say was nice to have the tent already erected on arrival. The food was excellent as was the group morale with the completion of every day seen as a celebration. Only a set number of permits are issued a day so the Inca trail never felt busy.

But for me, it was seeing the Inca ruins which were unexpected. Because you see so many photographs of Machu Picchu, it doesn't really surprise you when you eventually clap your eyes on it. Don't get me wrong, it's very impressive and is a must even if shared with so many other people. But having time at remote ruins which are unreachable to most of the tourists to the region, really gave me that traveling buzz that I always crave for.