Stromboli - one very active volcano

Many will tour Sicily and what a cultural and history-laden trip that will be, but how many will include that extra step and include the Aeolian Islands? Popular with the Italian tourist, I would certainly call these hidden gems for people from elsewhere especially if looking for something a little different. Each has its highlights, the sulphur colours of Vulcano, the history of Lipari but for me, it would be Stromboli.

It’s said the Romans called Stromboli the “Lighthouse of the Mediterranean” and indeed is a classic Stratovolcano which has been in an eruptive state for thousands of years. But landing at the jetty on a blue-skied April day you wouldn’t have thought so with the only giveaway being a puff of smoke drifting from the 924-metre high summit every 15 minutes.

The hydrofoil initially stops at the smallest of the island villages at Ginostra on the south-western side, but most stay on board as it’s the second stop which will give you access to the other two villages of San Vincenzo and Piscata. Located on the north-eastern shore, all the amenities a visitor could care for can be found here. Staying at Hotel Ossidiana would certainly be a recommendation (https://www.hotelossidiana.it).

OK, the beaches are of black pumice but you wouldn’t of come here for a beach holiday but a stroll enjoying the coastal views, wildlife and the narrow streets of the two villages is an enjoyable pastime.

You can also get into visual range of where the volcanic debris from the “Sciara del Fuoco” hurtles down towards the sea although in daylight you won’t see anything red, more a cloud of dust moving down the volcanic slope.

Which leads me to the main event, the reason you have come here, to see the glow of red hot lava, there are few places in the world where this can be seen with any certainty. The only thing which will stop you is high winds so stopping a guided walk to the crater or the sea so rough, you can’t watch from a boat.

So why the puff of smoke every 15 minutes? It was explained to us that as the top of the magma chamber cools, the magma (lava) which is exposed to the air starts to get a thicker consistency so stopping the associated gases from escaping. A bit like the skin on a custard! After around 15 minutes the backpressure is so great, it literally blows away the newly created plug (this time think of a champagne cork). So in an explosive manner, we get the clearing of the throat and the process starts again. You need to aim for late afternoon/dusk so can make out the redness of the lava fountain before it hits the ground as will instantly cool and takes on the black colouring. This means you will need to spend a night on the island.

It won’t be hard to find a local with a boat, but if you want to walk to the rim, check-in with one of the local guides, in my case https://magmatrek.it. The climb to the top is strenuous and three of our party turned back while some serious thought about the prospect, the steep slope being a trademark of a Stratovolcano. But with good health, motivation and sturdy footwear you will get there. The whole experience lasts around 5 hours with around 30-45 minutes at the top on the old crater rim looking across to the new crater. There were high winds on the day of my visit which would have caused a cancellation but luckily for me had subsided by late afternoon. Of course, everything hinges on recent volcanic activity and if it’s safe to step on the slopes. The guide will have access to the latest information but at the end of the day, there is always a risk.

After a few hundred metres on the climb, you start to leave the vegetation behind and are surrounded by volcanic rocks and the classic volcanic bombs.

The shadow of the volcano in the sea caused by the setting sun was a neat touch.

Over a ridge, you could start seeing wisps of lava in the air, almost like giant fireflies appearing in small clouds. I thought this was it, the experience and would have taken it, it was totally captivating in the dimming light.

But suddenly a roar, and as per the video, a sudden surge of lava, the champagne blockage had been cleared. Wow!

The light was fading fast now but still we climbed and eventually reached the rim of the old crater, what laid before us was something only the beauty of mother earth could produce. Two small vents which spurted out lava in an almost rhythmic fashion. A stream of lava poured from the upper vent to the vent below glowing with a beauty in the darkness. This really was a special moment.

After a few minutes, it was time to move but suddenly there was a roar and what I can only describe as narrow columns of vertical lava fragments forcing their way through the igneous rock which made up the crater floor. Accompanied by a loud hissing sound which I can only assume is the hot lava hitting the cold air and moisture creating steam? This was seeing the clearing of the throat first hand and just lasted a handful of seconds.

Filled with that feeling of excitement which we all strive for, now was the time to descend from the volcano summit back to the village below using head torches. This time via a slope of deep ash and pumice which you sank into up to your knees, but allowed a fast descent. At least this spared the jarring which can make going down harder on the leg’s then going up.

Time for a late-night pizza and to reflect on an amazing evening.