The true wanderers of the sea - the albatross

Is it me or does the word albatross have some sort of romanticism about it? This elegant seabird which roams the oceans in all weathers returning to its lifelong mate once a year. Not only do they have the longest wingspan of any living bird and can live up to sixty years in age, they have also become a symbol for conservationists. Their slow reproduction rate and deaths by long-line fishing are well documented with 19 of the 21 species categorised as threatened, three of which are classified as endangered.

Sightings in the northern hemisphere of the Atlantic are rare, my only sighting being in the Shetland Islands off the United Kingdom where the affectionately named Albert, a Black-browed albatross returned forlornly to the same ledge at the Hermaness gannet colony between 1972 and 1995. Even today as I write another appears to be stuck in the wrong part of the world as is infrequently reported off the European countries boarding the North Sea and is guaranteed to raise the heart rate of the local birding fraternity if seen.

My next encounter would be on the equator with the Waved albatrosses of the Isla Española in the Galapagos. Numbering some 17,000 pairs a visit early on in their breeding season allowed some exceptionally close views. The following photograph shows the classic tube-nose common to many sea birds and is part of the setup which allows the expulsion of salt as seabirds have no choice but to drink seawater while on their long sabbaticals out at sea.

But what I really wanted to see was the Waved albatross courtship dance and was lucky enough to get the full performance. I would really implore you to watch the video, it’s one of the most elaborate in the bird world.

The albatross lays just one egg per breeding season with any fledgling typically staying away at sea for some six years before returning to the colony hence why the breed finds it hard to recoup their numbers if affected by a natural or man-made disaster. They also need a breeding site where they can get updraughts soon after take-off, their physique is just not designed for movement on land but to glide the waves with minimal effort.

Waved albatross on Isla Española in the Galapagos.

My next encounter would be off the coast of Cape Town. Most albatrosses breed on far-flung islands in the oceanic and Antarctic regions but travel crazy distances outside of the breeding season. Many years ago I had read about pelagic trips out of South Africa which tracked fishing vessels and often attracted various types of sea birds. It was one of those things I thought would be a long lost dream but on this occasion, dreams can come true and joined a trip back in 2012.

The trawlers operate some 20-30 miles off Cape Town

Sure enough, we found a trawler and the report of a holy grail of bird watching, a white-backed albatross. Unless you head deep into the southern oceans the chances of seeing one of these is very slim, not many birders would have one of these on their list. But what sort would it be? During the next few hours, we logged 150 Shy, 100 Black-browed, 8 Atlantic yellow nosed, 4 Indian yellow nosed, and finally got to grips with two magnificent white backed Wandering albatrosses, the bird with the biggest wingspan of them all.

It’s estimated that the long-line fishing technique where birds get snagged on baited hooks or entangled in nets has accounted for over 300,000 seabird deaths and has had a serious effect on albatross numbers. But a redesign of the nets which has since been deployed to the fishing fleet of New Zealand has led to zero reported casualties. The hope is these can be rolled out to the other fishing operations around the world although illegal operations will always be a problem.

Shy albatross enjoying a cast-off from a trawler fishing off Cape Town with this species breeding on three islands off Tasmania.

Roll forward seven years and I came to my best ever albatross experience while on a trip in the southern oceans. As soon as we left the southern tip of Argentina the Royal and Wandering albatross were regularly keeping us company by using the updraughts to their advantage as the wind hit the ship and deflected upwards.

A Wandering albatross does a flyby in the southern ocean

Later I would get just one chance to photograph a Light-mantled albatross while off South Georgia which for me wins the award for the most attractive of the species. On one day we hit katabatic winds which basically translated to Gale Force 10, but still the albatrosses graced the skies by just changing their wing shape, these are truly masters of the oceans.

Light-mantled albatross from the South Georgia population

But it was our first landfall at West Point Island in the Falkland Islands which was the real treat. At a rocky outcrop known as the Devils Nose, we were treated to very close views to a Black-browed albatross colony. The direction of the wind meant the adult birds were passing just over our heads on the final approach to land in the colony. This was nature at its best.

Black-browed albatross coming into land at West Point, Falklands

Known locally as Mollyhawks, some 70% of the Black-brows nest on the Falklands. We stood right on the edge of the colony amongst the tussocks where an old wire fence was situated standing some two people deep. The birds were just a few feet away with all the smells and noises which come with a sea bird colony.

Suddenly there was a gasp from around me and found just behind an albatross was making its way through the tussock and was walking between us, but got to the side of me and stopped as was faced with a string of barbed wire on the floor and was afraid to cross. After a moment he looked at me and then looked at the wire. I looked down feeling rather stunned and he did it again. Slowly I reached down and raised the wire and he waddled underneath and was back in the colony.

If you had told me as a young boy that one day I would be in the Falklands lifting up a piece of barb wire up to allow an albatross walk under, I would never have believed you.

That is why I love travelling so much, its things like this you just cannot order however much money you have. It’s that one moment in time due to random events which makes it so special.

I love albatrosses!